CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR ADOPTION!

You have just saved the life of a cat!

Our rescued cats come to us through every imaginable circumstance and therefore many times their backgrounds, including ages, are unknown.  We have provided you with as much information as we know about this cat, so we offer this document to guide you through your new adoption experience.  We insist that all adopters keep their cats indoors, for their safety and so that they do not end up in a shelter, picked up as strays.  We try not to adopt to people who will declaw their cats – it is barbaric and unnecessary.  We have included helpful information in this packet to protect you, your family and your household from cats’ clawing habits.

Shopping List:  Litter box (covered or open) and litter, carrier, brush, nail clippers, toys, catnip, cardboard floor scratcher (alpine incline scratch works great) with catnip, bowls, dry food (we recommend Nutro any flavor dry food) and wet food (anything but Whiskas).  Keep dry food and water out at all times for your cat, then wet food once in the morning and once at night.  For first time pet owners, pick up a pet guide – you’d be amazed at the facts you’ll find and helpful tips for happy and healthy pet ownership.

Pet Insurance –  www.aspcapetinsurance.com

We suggest you sign up for insurance – you never know when you’ll need it!

No shelter will pay for medicines or care once you have adopted your animal – this really is no different from adopting a child.  There will be monetary responsibilities which go along with the care of an animal, especially kittens.   The program above gives you 10 days to sign up via telephone or online.  This insurance will reimburse the adopter for vet bills for illness or injury that is “shelter related” - $500 per incident with a $50 deductible.  Shelter related could mean almost anything such as ear mites, cough, feline leukemia, skin conditions, infection, disease, etc.  These things sometimes happen and it’s best to be prepared just in case.  Our rescue organization has no relationship with this insurer; we only use this as a suggestion to our adopters as any responsible group would.

Please take your new cat or kitten to your veterinarian (we will happily help you find one if need be!) within 10 days.  This is for the protection of other pets you may have in your home.

If you’ve adopted a kitten(s), they will need two more “3-1” inoculation shots to be fully protected against the 3 types of diseases that cats are prone to get (calici, rhinotracheitis, and panleukopenia (distemper).  We have given your cat one shot so far as part of your adoption fee.  Take your paperwork to your vet who will determine the timing for the remainder of the shots.  Adult cats need the shots updated every year (or just follow the instructions of your vet).

For your first vet visit, bring a stool sample.  We try to deworm and treat every cat for parasites, but some cats need more than one treatment for each.  This is not unusual, so don’t think your cat is defective – again, this is nature people!  You may find that your cat or kitten has some flea “dirt” – we have sprayed your cat with Frontline spray which kills active fleas, but does NOT kill flea eggs.  Ask your veterinarian about flea protection at your first visit.

The very first thing to do upon reaching home with any new cat is to plunk them into the litterbox!   They don’t have to do anything, they just need to know where it is.  They’ll take things from there! If you need to relocate the litter box  at a later time, move it only three or four feet at a time so they can follow it to the new location.  Over a period of several days, you should have successfully relocated your litter box to the new place of your choosing.

Where to start the new cat?  In one room of the house especially if you have another cat.  Over the first few days, the cats will reach their paws under the door, sniff each other through the door and maybe even pass toys back and forth.  They  know each other is there, they can hear and smell them, so this is Their  first period of adjustment.

After a few days, sit the new cat on your lap and let the resident cat march around the new cat’s room. They will probably take one look at each other and give a little “hiss!”.  That’s ok!  It’s to be expected.  The next time, try it with the resident cat on your lap and let the new cat explore.  Slowly, let the cats meet each other.  Short of KILLING each other, they will work out their differences.  Before you know it, they’ll be napping together and waiting for dinner together.  Cats should allow the new cat to use their litter box, but just be conscious of the personalities involved.

The first couple days – If your cat was ever a stray, please realize that nature still takes over.  Keep plenty of litter boxes handy and place them on each level of the house where the cat will spend the majority of his or her time.  Keep laundry, jackets, blankets and shoes off the floor as the cat will sometimes use these items as a litter box.  Cats like soft things to pee and defecate on, so this should serve as a reason to keep a clean floor at least!

Expect some whimpering or a period of adjustment such as hiding, stress or bewilderment.  It’s all very new to them.

If you have a new kitten and want the kitten to sleep with you at night, either keep a litter box in bed at the foot of the bed with you, or pull up a chair or ottoman next to the bed and place the litter box there during the night.  Lift the kitten into the litter box and then let him or her climb out of it back into bed with you. Do this several times to reinforce the idea of a night time “in bed” litter box. Please don’t expect a tiny baby kitten to wake up in the middle of the night, leave your nice, warm cozy bed, walk all the way downstairs and use the litter box during the night!  She’s a baby!!!  You wouldn’t expect your child to do it – your kitten can’t do it either.

If your kitten is playing in the living room with you during the day, drag an extra litter box in there with you so you won’t have any accidents!  Just use common sense people, your kitten’s “childhood” lasts a lot less time than a human’s so use caution and enjoy it at the same time.

NEVER leave a kitten alone with ANY dog until that kitten is at least an adolescent who can escape by jumping up onto furniture or swatting to protect itself.  That means NEVER – no matter how “sweet” you think your dog is, nature is nature folks.  We don’t want any accidents.

You’ll soon also learn to cat and kitten proof your house – you may need to add tin foil to the soil of your house plants so they don’t use it for a litterbox.  You may need to patch that old hole in the wall because the cat likes to hide there.  You’ll need to check closets and cabinets to make sure you haven’t shut the kitten up in one and you’ll have to teach your children to respect this new little creature.  Check electrical outlets and things that could pose a danger to your cat, drapery cords, and string.  Make sure the cat does NOT get out of the house!

Oh goodness, someone in the house just started sneezing!  Try these things before you are tempted to return the cat.  Once you’ve exhausted these and other resources, we will CERTAINLY take the cat back from you.

First of all, switch litters!  The sandier the litter, the more it may irritant human noses.  Use the cheapest granular type, (there’s plenty of litter alternatives that are better for you and your cat – cedar litter, recycled newspaper litter, wheat litter, etc.).  Face it, the cat jumps in the litter box, kicks litter all over, including their fur and then sits on your chest – it may not be the CAT you are allergic to, it may be the DUST!

Other things to try:

	Oxymed soothing cat wipes
	Nutro cat food (some cats are allergic to the less nutritious cat foods – Nutro helps with their coat and allows less  shedding – Garbage in, garbage out is the motto to use.   Your cat may not benefit from junk food.
	Simple Solution Allergy Relief (moistened cloths)
	Lambert Kay Shed Relief
	Linatone Shed Relief

You can also add a spoonful of olive oil to your cat’s wet food – we’ve heard that helps keep their coat shiny, smooth and dandruff free.

Check the internet for additional information– there are plenty of supplements sold which are administered to the cat, not just the person to help with pet dander.

Litter box problems and solutions   (don’t panic)

If the cat is not using the litter box, try the following:

1.

First and foremost – get your cat TO THE VET for a check up!!!!! If the cat has any type of urinary infection, it HURTS to pee!  They, being cats, not humans, associate the pain with the litterbox and therefore, will not use it.

If your vet says your cat is healthy, proceed with the following…

	2.	Pick up the stool and place it into the litter box.
	3.	Pick up anything on the floor that the cat may try to hide their urine or stool in.
	4.	Cats will search out any “Soft” area or place to deposit their stool. If they are going on your bed, restrict access to it.
	5.	If your cat is indoor/outdoor – STOP letting it out!  Think people!  To the cat what is acceptable outdoors is also acceptable indoors.  We are supposed to be the thinking beings with opposable thumbs, not the cat!
	6.	Put the cat back in one room and put a litter box in each corner of the room – for some reason, they like to find the corners.
	7.	If necessary, put the cat in a small bathroom or laundry room (or a dog crate) and literally almost cover the floor with litter boxes until they learn to use the box (cardboard boxes cut down to a 1 inch high size will do).  Try Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract Litter (there are great tips included in there).
	8.	Add leaves, dirt or tree bark to the litter.
	9.	Change litters (clay, sandy litter, recycled newspaper, unscented).
	10.	If they urinate in the same spot over and over, place their food there, cut out the carpet if you can, or place their litter box there.
	11.	Cats hate the smell of rubber backing on throw carpets – get rid of them.
	12.	Has another cat already marked all these spots?
	13.	Is another cat chasing them away or blocking their path to the litterbox?
	14.	Is the box on an outside porch where other cats or birds could be scaring them?
	15.	Is another cat ALWAYS using the box first?  They may not like that.
	16.	Is the box clean? Some cats refuse to use a “used” box, you may have to buy one or two more litter boxes – still easier than constant cleaning.
	17.	Have you had a new addition to the family? Did someone move in or move out? The cat may need some extra attention.
	18.	Did you change foods?
	19.	Did you get new carpeting?
	20.	Are you absolutely positive which cat it is (if you have multiple cats).
	21.	Try changing the entire litter box more often, some cats will only use a litter box when it is absolutely clean!
	22.	Are they not used to a covered litter box? Take the top off. Check out the shape of the top of a covered litter box – sometimes a cat will associate that with a carrier and refuse to get in it.
	23.	Is the litter box near something noisy? Something that is only occasionally noisy?  Something smelly?  Is it through a door?  Is it difficult to get to?
	24.	Is the box in a place where you then lock them in for the night? Well, of course, they’ll only fall for that one so many times!  Cut it out!
	25.	If the cat is a kitten try this.  Feed them as usual.  Immediately after the feeding, take the kitten and place him or her in their litter box and wait.  If they do not have a bowel movement,  wet a clean rag with warm water, place them back in the litter box and gently stimulate their backside until they pee or defecate.  They will very quickly get the concept – cats are very smart!!!!!
	26.	Have you been traveling a lot?  Cats crave attention – the chemicals in urine seem to comfort cats while they wait.
	27.	Be honest – is someone in the house irritating or hurting the cat? Are you fighting a lot? Are your kids a little too rambunctious?  One more reason to get control over your offspring – ‘cause if your kid is annoying the cat – they are probably annoying your fellow human beings too!
	28.	Cats also urinate to create a comfortable scent amidst competing unpleasant scents.  It is possible that your cat detects an offensive odor emanating from something new in the house and is trying to cover it.
	29.	You may place two litter boxes next to each other and do comparisons – fill one with one type of litter and the 2nd with another litter.  Use one taller one and one shorter one, one covered and the other uncovered, Put cat nip in one and not the other – compare!  And see what the cat does.
	30.	And last, if the problem continues, SEE your VET again!  This may be a medical problem and CALL US!!!  We are here to help!

Back in the days when the feline diet was strictly self-caught, cats got their veggies predigested from the stomach contents of their prey.  Today, many cats still try to supplement meat based cat food with leafy greens.  For information log onto the website http://www.penmarric.ns.ca./

Even cat-safe plants such as wheat grass and catnip can cause vomiting.  To meet their need for plant-based nutrients without having to mop up afterward, offer fresh alfalfa sprouts, parsley, spinach, grated carrots, peas, cucumber, steamed broccoli or green beans.

Flower Potty?  Large planters are frequently targeted as elimination spots, especially by cats that have spent part of their lives outdoors.  By covering the entire pot with mesh netting that’s gathered and tied around the tree’s trunk or by tightly packing pebbles or marbles around the plant, the cat is barred from getting to the dirt and the plant can still be watered.  You may also use tin foil or plastic wrap leaving enough space for water.
 

Declawing may protect your furniture,  but does little to protect your cat.

Declawing is an irreversible surgical procedure that involves amputating the last joint of a cat’s toes.  It is a very painful procedure with strong potential for secondary complications.

After declawing, the cat can no longer extend its claws.  Recovery may be lengthy and painful.  A cat’s claws are a vital part of its anatomy, essential to balance, mobility, defense, grooming and survival.  Its front claws are a cat’s primary defense.

Behavior/Health Problems Associated with Declawing
The cat may become insecure and distressed.  Therefore, biting sometimes becomes overcompensation for the insecurity of having no claws.  You’d rather your children are scratched by a cat than bitten, and that should only happen if the little buggers are bothering the cat!

Spraying or inappropriate urination – declawed cats will often stop using the litter box due to the pain caused by digging in the litter, choosing instead a soft surface like your bed, laundry, or carpets.

Physical Complications
Because a general anesthetic is necessary, there is the danger of an adverse reaction.

If the bandages are put on too tightly, the foot may become gangrenous and necessitate amputation of the leg.  When the bandages are removed, many cats will begin to hemorrhage.
In many instances, the entire nail bed was not removed and one or more claws will begin to regrow.  The claws that do regrow are usually misshapen and quite useless.

Because a cat’s nail is brittle or the trimmer is dull, the bone may shatter and cause a sequestrum, which serves as a focus for infection and continuous drainage from the toe.

Emotional Complications
Upon recovering from the anesthetic, your healthy cat wonders why his feet are throbbing and bandaged. After the bandages are removed, he wonders what happened to his claws and why it hurts when he walks.  Frequently, a cat becomes very distrustful of his owner. A declawed cat is more apt to bite if he feels threatened. The origin of many chronic physical ailments including cystitis and skin disorders can be traced to the period immediately following declawing.

There are Alternatives to declawing! Visit the Website http://www.stopdeclaw.com/

Alpine “Cat Scratcher”
Corrugated cardboard boxes that come with catnip.  Sprinkle the catnip over the cardboard and let the cat have at it! They’ll soon be sleeping and playing on the box and generally spending lots of time around it.  If they don’t take to it right away, run a feather toy over it to engage the cat’s nails on it. They’ll soon learn that this is the appropriate place to scratch – NOT your furniture.  Unlike conventional scratching posts, it doesn’t feel like your carpeting or furniture, so there’s no confusion on the cat’s part.  It’s very successful!

Pieces of wood with bark on them – hey, some people swear by this!

Transparent Double-Sided Tape Sheets
Sold at pet stores and hardware stores. Most cats scratch the same place on the same piece of furniture over and over. Place a sheet of this transparent tape over that place on your furniture.  The cat goes to scratch that place and their paws stick to it.  Cats HATE stickiness.  The tape is transparent, so guests can’t see it, but the cat will remember it’s there.  You can remove it after a few weeks.  If the cat returns to the spot after that, replace the piece of tape.

Nail Tips
Sold at pet stores. (or over the internet with any animal website). $15 for 4 sets of nail tips which last for 3 months or so. They make the nails more rounded so that they can’t catch on your furniture.

Low Cost Spay/Neuter		Rescue Groups
Ace of Spays (Southern NJ) PO Box 238, Medford, NJ 08055 Phone: 609-654-2921 Female Cat $50/Male Cat $35		AIDS Cats (only takes AIDS positive cats)  Phone:  Lynn 717-469-2540 or Nikki 973-422-6692
Cats must be 8 weeks or older. Other locations available with this group email:  info@aceofspays.com http://aceofspays.com/		AIDS Adoptions The people pet partnership  Phone:  215-629-2350  email: peoplepetpartnership@earthlink.net
Humane Society of Ocean City 1 Shelter Road, P.O. Box 1254 Ocean City NJ 08226		Adopt-A-Cat (Wendy)  Phone:  215-741-1166
Phone: (609) 399-2018 Hours: 11:00am - 3:00pm (Every Day, Sat & Sun too!) http://hsoc.petfinder.org/		Alley Cat Allies Phone:  202-667-3630 http://www.alleycat.org/ Great info on stray and feral cats!
Alliance for Philadelphia’s Animals Phone:  215-772-1525 See the website for info. They have mobile spay/neuter vans.  What an ambitious program this is!  http://www.animalalliancepa.org/		Animal Allies  Phone:  609-394-3000 http://www.petfinder.org/shelters/aa.html
Philadelphia Animal Care and Control Association 111 West Hunting Park Avenue, Phila, PA 19140 Phone:  215-685-9040 Cat spay $50/Cat neuter $30/ Rabies vaccine $15/Distemper vaccine $15 Heartworm test $25/FeLV/FIV test $30/Microchip $15		Animals in Distress Phone:  609-586-4995
Animal Welfare Association 509 Centennial Boulevard,  Voorhees, NJ 08043  Phone:  856-424-2288  email:  info@awanj.org http://www.awanj.org/		APAW  http://www.apawpets.org/ Phone:  609-799-1263
NJ Animal Rights Alliance Will help find low cost spay/neuter in your area for feral and stray colonies. Phone:  732-446-6808		Homeward Bound Rescue Phone:  609-586-9143
SPAY People for Animals Phone:  908-964-6887 Cash and checks only, rabies and distemper included.  $40 male cat/$45 female cats; pregnant and cats in heat accepted		Hope for The Animals Phone: 215-945-6204 http://www.hopefortheanimals.petfinder.org/
Spay USA Phone:  800-248-7729 http://www.spayusa.org/		Maine Coon Rescue http://www.mainecoonrescue.com/
Oasis Animal Sanctuary http://www.oasisanimalsanctuary.org/ Based on financial need – you will need to provide IRS forms. $10 for male cats, slightly higher for females		Pet Rescue of Mercer Phone:  609-587-2423
Friends of Animals Phone:  800-321-PETS (7387)  F -$55, M- $40		S.A.V.E. http://www.save-animals.com/ Phone:  609-921-6122
Go on line at:  http://www.friendsofanimals.org/ 1st time on line – enter your zip code and hit send.		Save the Cats – Yardley  Phone:  215-493-1158
Wait for list of participating vets on your email. At the bottom of this list is a link.		Siam Rescue - Judy Phone:  610-566-0858 or MeezerPleasers
Click on it and it will take you to the purchase site.		Wildlife Center (any animal not domestic) Phone:  609-883-6606