You have just saved
the life of a cat!
Our rescued cats come to
us through every imaginable circumstance and therefore many times their
backgrounds, including ages, are unknown. We have provided you with
as much information as we know about this cat, so we offer this document
to guide you through your new adoption experience. We insist that
all adopters keep their cats indoors, for their safety and so that they
do not end up in a shelter, picked up as strays. We try not to adopt
to people who will declaw their cats - it is barbaric and unnecessary.
We have included helpful information in this packet to protect you, your
family and your household from cats' clawing habits.
Shopping List: Litter
box (covered or open) and litter, carrier, brush, nail clippers, toys, catnip, cardboard floor scratcher (alpine incline scratch works great) with catnip, bowls, dry food (we recommend Nutro any flavor dry food) and wet food (anything but Whiskas). Keep dry food and water out at all times for your cat, then wet food once in the morning and once at night. For first time pet owners, pick up a pet guide - you'd be amazed at the facts you'll find and helpful tips for happy and healthy pet ownership.
Pet Insurance - www.aspcapetinsurance.com
We suggest you sign up for
insurance - you never know when you'll need it!
No shelter will pay for medicines
or care once you have adopted your animal - this really is no different
from adopting a child. There will be monetary responsibilities which
go along with the care of an animal, especially kittens. The
program above gives you 10 days to sign up via telephone or online.
This insurance will reimburse the adopter for vet bills for illness or
injury that is "shelter related" - $500 per incident with a $50 deductible.
Shelter related could mean almost anything such as ear mites, cough, feline
leukemia, skin conditions, infection, disease, etc. These things
sometimes happen and it's best to be prepared just in case. Our rescue
organization has no relationship with this insurer; we only use this as
a suggestion to our adopters as any responsible group would.
TAKE YOUR NEW CAT TO SEE YOUR VET!
Please take your new cat
or kitten to your veterinarian (we will happily help you find one if need
be!) within 10 days. This is for the protection of other pets you
may have in your home.
If you've adopted a kitten(s),
they will need two more "3-1" inoculation shots to be fully protected against
the 3 types of diseases that cats are prone to get (calici, rhinotracheitis,
and panleukopenia (distemper). We have given your cat one shot so
far as part of your adoption fee. Take your paperwork to your vet
who will determine the timing for the remainder of the shots. Adult
cats need the shots updated every year (or just follow the instructions
of your vet).
For your first vet visit,
bring a stool sample. We try to deworm and treat every cat for parasites,
but some cats need more than one treatment for each. This is not
unusual, so don't think your cat is defective - again, this is nature people!
You may find that your cat or kitten has some flea "dirt" - we have sprayed
your cat with Frontline spray which kills active fleas, but does NOT kill
flea eggs. Ask your veterinarian about flea protection at your first
BRINGING YOUR NEW CAT HOME!
The very first thing to do
upon reaching home with any new cat is to plunk them into the litterbox!
They don't have to do anything, they just need to know where it is.
They'll take things from there! If you need to relocate the litter box
at a later time, move it only three or four feet at a time so they can
follow it to the new location. Over a period of several days, you
should have successfully relocated your litter box to the new place of
Where to start the new cat?
In one room of the house especially if you have another cat. Over
the first few days, the cats will reach their paws under the door, sniff
each other through the door and maybe even pass toys back and forth.
They know each other is there, they can hear and smell them, so this
is Their first period of adjustment.
After a few days, sit the
new cat on your lap and let the resident cat march around the new cat's
room. They will probably take one look at each other and give a little
"hiss!". That's ok! It's to be expected. The next time,
try it with the resident cat on your lap and let the new cat explore.
Slowly, let the cats meet each other. Short of KILLING each other,
they will work out their differences. Before you know it, they'll
be napping together and waiting for dinner together. Cats should
allow the new cat to use their litter box, but just be conscious of the
The first couple days - If
your cat was ever a stray, please realize that nature still takes over.
Keep plenty of litter boxes handy and place them on each level of the house
where the cat will spend the majority of his or her time. Keep laundry,
jackets, blankets and shoes off the floor as the cat will sometimes use
these items as a litter box. Cats like soft things to pee and defecate
on, so this should serve as a reason to keep a clean floor at least!
Expect some whimpering or
a period of adjustment such as hiding, stress or bewilderment. It's
all very new to them.
If you have a new kitten
and want the kitten to sleep with you at night, either keep a litter box
in bed at the foot of the bed with you, or pull up a chair or ottoman next
to the bed and place the litter box there during the night. Lift
the kitten into the litter box and then let him or her climb out of it
back into bed with you. Do this several times to reinforce the idea of
a night time "in bed" litter box. Please don't expect a tiny baby kitten
to wake up in the middle of the night, leave your nice, warm cozy bed,
walk all the way downstairs and use the litter box during the night!
She's a baby!!! You wouldn't expect your child to do it - your kitten
can't do it either.
If your kitten is playing
in the living room with you during the day, drag an extra litter box in
there with you so you won't have any accidents! Just use common sense
people, your kitten's "childhood" lasts a lot less time than a human's
so use caution and enjoy it at the same time.
NEVER leave a kitten alone
with ANY dog until that kitten is at least an adolescent who can escape
by jumping up onto furniture or swatting to protect itself. That
means NEVER - no matter how "sweet" you think your dog is, nature is nature
folks. We don't want any accidents.
You'll soon also learn to
cat and kitten proof your house - you may need to add tin foil to the soil
of your house plants so they don't use it for a litterbox. You may
need to patch that old hole in the wall because the cat likes to hide there.
You'll need to check closets and cabinets to make sure you haven't shut
the kitten up in one and you'll have to teach your children to respect
this new little creature. Check electrical outlets and things that
could pose a danger to your cat, drapery cords, and string. Make
sure the cat does NOT get out of the house!
Cats and Plants:
Back in the days when the
feline diet was strictly self-caught, cats got their veggies predigested
from the stomach contents of their prey. Today, many cats still try
to supplement meat based cat food with leafy greens. For information
log onto the website http://www.penmarric.ns.ca./
Even cat-safe plants such
as wheat grass and catnip can cause vomiting. To meet their need
for plant-based nutrients without having to mop up afterward, offer fresh
alfalfa sprouts, parsley, spinach, grated carrots, peas, cucumber, steamed
broccoli or green beans.
Flower Potty? Large
planters are frequently targeted as elimination spots, especially by cats
that have spent part of their lives outdoors. By covering the entire
pot with mesh netting that's gathered and tied around the tree's trunk
or by tightly packing pebbles or marbles around the plant, the cat is barred
from getting to the dirt and the plant can still be watered. You
may also use tin foil or plastic wrap leaving enough space for water.